Day 10 - Fortaleza

 

Date:  Jan. 18, 2007

 

Location:  Fortaleza, Brazil

 

Next Port:  Salvador de Bahia, Jan. 20

 

Quick Summary:  Early start to self-guided tour of Fortaleza, followed by an inspiring youth dance presentation for all guests. Temps a constant 80-82 degrees and humidity around 95%...but not oppressive.

 

Report:  We skipped our workouts in order to catch an early 15-20 min. shuttle into town. A city of about 2 million, Fortaleza is still a rather poor area and graffiti is very widespread. (They certainly can’t afford Chicago Mayor Daley’s “graffiti squads” who wipe out the work of the offensive taggers so quickly that most give up trying.)

 

We began our walk in the old prison that has been converted into a bazaar of small individual shops, really just vendor stands. The main products were lace, embroidered and needle point women’s clothes and linens, some wood carvings, and leather shoes and bags.

 

We walked through the main part of downtown, primarily populated by open, “mom and pop” storefronts. Each “store” was responsible for building and maintaining the pavement in front of their establishment. The sidewalks were a mish-mash of tile designs, concrete, asphalt, etc., with much of it crumbling or broken, making for very uneven footing. We did find three city parks…one was very shaded with book sellers and a small white church. The city’s large, twin-spired, Gothic-style Se Cathedral is having a great deal of interior work done, but the main attraction was its many beautiful stained-glass windows.

 

We found the Praca de Alencar, the city’s largest square in the heart of the commercial district. There we joined the rest of our shipmates for a special complimentary event at the Teatro Jose de Alencar, named for the great 19th-century novelist and poet who was a native of the city. The theater was built in 1910 and is an impressive building – a pastel-colored hybrid of classical and Art Noveau architecture. It has a gorgeous curved, wooden-planked, painted ceiling; two horseshoe balconies and stair cases of fanciful, painted iron work; and a magnificent stained glass window above the all-glass back. (The glass is a modern addition that lets in light and allows for air conditioning!)

 

Here in Fortaleza a very special foundation has taken the children of the streets and fishermen and has given them purpose and skills – the purpose to express themselves and the skill to talk to the world through the art of dance.

 

The company is called Edisca and is a modern dance company. They danced the ballet, Bale Jangurussu, which is based on life on the streets in Brazilian cities.

 

Here are Karen’s notes from a terrific performance:

 

We enjoyed a wonderful dance presentation by children from about 7-8 years of age up to 14-15 (my guess). They were so limber, fluid and spirited throughout an interpretive dance that represented what their lives were like on the street before they were picked to participate. We saw fighting, parents arrested, children dying and then joy in being given new opportunities.

 

The style of dance resembled Alvin Ailey dancers and some Cirque de Soleil, particularly the costumes and body paint.

 

Following the wonderful performance, we were further entertained in the adjacent garden. Drinks and canapés were served to the guests sitting at table clothed-tables. A trio of older dance couples (18-30 years, my guess) danced the maracatu, an Afro-Brazilian dance, and then invited female and male guests to dance the forro with them. It was very lively music and a fun time.

 

This was definitely a highlight of the trip.

 

We returned to the ship by bus…this time along the front of the hotels lining the wide, pretty Iracema Beach. The city beaches are great socializing areas in Brazil – for walking, drinking, dancing and some sports. But, unfortunately, no swimming here (and I understand also at some of the famous beaches in Rio) due to pollution.

 

We enjoyed dinner in Compass Rose with Jennifer and Kevin from New Zealand.  We had just met them while enjoying a before dinner drink in the Voyager Lounge listening to Peter and Elisa. The evening show following dinner was David Howarth, a pianist from the UK.

 

We want to give special kudos to Regent Cruises and Marilyn Carlson Nelson, the chairman and CEO of the Carlson Group of companies of which RSSC is a part. It is through Carlson’s support of the World Childhood Foundation that made the complimentary performance of Edisca possible. It was a meaningful experience for all who attended. It was inspiring to see what a difference such corporate contributions can make in the lives of the less fortunate.  

 

Tomorrow is another sea day as we head towards Salvador de Bahia.

 

Karen and Larry