Day 11 - At Sea

 

Date:  Jan. 19, 2007

 

Location:  At Sea

 

Next Port:  Salvador de Bahia, Jan. 20

 

Quick Summary:  A perfect sea day…the best one yet. Though the temps were only a degree or two cooler and the humidity was still in the mid-90s, the haze was gone and the perfectly blue sky was crystal clear and marked with just puffy white clouds.

 

Report:  Larry got his workout in early before joining Karen for the 20-min. daily devotional gathering in the Horizon Lounger at 8:45. This was followed by our normal breakfast on the aft deck off La Veranda where our delightful French waiter, Alexis, takes very good care of us. By now, he automatically gets Larry’s orange juice and skim milk and fills Karen’s walk-around coffee thermos cup (that she was smart enough to bring) while we hit the indoors buffet line for our cereal and fruit.

 

Next Larry attended Daniel Silke’s Globalization lecture on the new competitors, the BRIC nations (Brazil, Russia, India and China). Karen did some laundry and attended a bridge lesson.

 

After the lecture, Larry finished yesterday’s journal entry and caught up on some newspaper reading. One of our neighbors, Don, has enough Regent sailing credits that he gets a complimentary printed satellite copy of the Wall Street Journal. He shares it with Larry each day. It’s a great satellite fax service (from newspaperdirect.com) that can provide ships and hotels some 400 newspapers from 68 countries in 38 languages. It must carry more than 75% of the copy in the WSJ and is great reading. If one doesn’t have enough Regent points to get a complimentary copy, the cost is $6.50/day. So Larry is very thankful that Don shares. Similar copies of USA Today are available in the Library and other guests also place copies of their favorite papers there when they are finished with them. We also get CNN International, Fox News and CNBC (most of the time) live on our in-suite TVs.

 

After a late light lunch onthe back deck (with Alexis), we stretched our legs in the beautiful sun before going off to an afternoon of reading for Larry and some casual bridge in the Observation Lounge for Karen.  She also got in a late afternoon walk on the upper deck.

 

This evening we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks in the Observation Lounge (with guitar music) and dinner in Signatures with Dody and Larry, from Oregon…a couple we met at the pre-departure dinner in Miami. They also attend the devotionals with us and are a delightful couple. The show included two dances by a very talented Brazilian couple and singer David Bouchet (a matinee idol). A great evening.

 

We both enjoyed being on our balcony and walking the deck at various times today. We were cruising only about 13-15 miles off shore so we could see the coastline and various cities.  We also saw many small and large boats as well as beautiful soaring gannets and flying fish. It was one of those days where the horizon was knife-edge sharp and drew us to be outside as much as possible. A perfect sea day!

 

Tomorrow pull into Salvador de Bahia, Brazil’s first capital.

 

Karen and Larry

Day 10 - Fortaleza

 

Date:  Jan. 18, 2007

 

Location:  Fortaleza, Brazil

 

Next Port:  Salvador de Bahia, Jan. 20

 

Quick Summary:  Early start to self-guided tour of Fortaleza, followed by an inspiring youth dance presentation for all guests. Temps a constant 80-82 degrees and humidity around 95%...but not oppressive.

 

Report:  We skipped our workouts in order to catch an early 15-20 min. shuttle into town. A city of about 2 million, Fortaleza is still a rather poor area and graffiti is very widespread. (They certainly can’t afford Chicago Mayor Daley’s “graffiti squads” who wipe out the work of the offensive taggers so quickly that most give up trying.)

 

We began our walk in the old prison that has been converted into a bazaar of small individual shops, really just vendor stands. The main products were lace, embroidered and needle point women’s clothes and linens, some wood carvings, and leather shoes and bags.

 

We walked through the main part of downtown, primarily populated by open, “mom and pop” storefronts. Each “store” was responsible for building and maintaining the pavement in front of their establishment. The sidewalks were a mish-mash of tile designs, concrete, asphalt, etc., with much of it crumbling or broken, making for very uneven footing. We did find three city parks…one was very shaded with book sellers and a small white church. The city’s large, twin-spired, Gothic-style Se Cathedral is having a great deal of interior work done, but the main attraction was its many beautiful stained-glass windows.

 

We found the Praca de Alencar, the city’s largest square in the heart of the commercial district. There we joined the rest of our shipmates for a special complimentary event at the Teatro Jose de Alencar, named for the great 19th-century novelist and poet who was a native of the city. The theater was built in 1910 and is an impressive building – a pastel-colored hybrid of classical and Art Noveau architecture. It has a gorgeous curved, wooden-planked, painted ceiling; two horseshoe balconies and stair cases of fanciful, painted iron work; and a magnificent stained glass window above the all-glass back. (The glass is a modern addition that lets in light and allows for air conditioning!)

 

Here in Fortaleza a very special foundation has taken the children of the streets and fishermen and has given them purpose and skills – the purpose to express themselves and the skill to talk to the world through the art of dance.

 

The company is called Edisca and is a modern dance company. They danced the ballet, Bale Jangurussu, which is based on life on the streets in Brazilian cities.

 

Here are Karen’s notes from a terrific performance:

 

We enjoyed a wonderful dance presentation by children from about 7-8 years of age up to 14-15 (my guess). They were so limber, fluid and spirited throughout an interpretive dance that represented what their lives were like on the street before they were picked to participate. We saw fighting, parents arrested, children dying and then joy in being given new opportunities.

 

The style of dance resembled Alvin Ailey dancers and some Cirque de Soleil, particularly the costumes and body paint.

 

Following the wonderful performance, we were further entertained in the adjacent garden. Drinks and canapés were served to the guests sitting at table clothed-tables. A trio of older dance couples (18-30 years, my guess) danced the maracatu, an Afro-Brazilian dance, and then invited female and male guests to dance the forro with them. It was very lively music and a fun time.

 

This was definitely a highlight of the trip.

 

We returned to the ship by bus…this time along the front of the hotels lining the wide, pretty Iracema Beach. The city beaches are great socializing areas in Brazil – for walking, drinking, dancing and some sports. But, unfortunately, no swimming here (and I understand also at some of the famous beaches in Rio) due to pollution.

 

We enjoyed dinner in Compass Rose with Jennifer and Kevin from New Zealand.  We had just met them while enjoying a before dinner drink in the Voyager Lounge listening to Peter and Elisa. The evening show following dinner was David Howarth, a pianist from the UK.

 

We want to give special kudos to Regent Cruises and Marilyn Carlson Nelson, the chairman and CEO of the Carlson Group of companies of which RSSC is a part. It is through Carlson’s support of the World Childhood Foundation that made the complimentary performance of Edisca possible. It was a meaningful experience for all who attended. It was inspiring to see what a difference such corporate contributions can make in the lives of the less fortunate.  

 

Tomorrow is another sea day as we head towards Salvador de Bahia.

 

Karen and Larry

Day 9 - Land Ho!

 

Date:  Jan. 17, 2007

 

Location:  Fortaleza, Brazil

 

Next Port:  Salvador de Bahia, Jan. 20

 

Quick Summary:  Voyager finally docks in South America. Seas are much calmer and the winds have died somewhat. Temps still about 82 degrees and humid, but the visibility is greatly improved.

 

Report:  We followed our “normal” sea day routine…workouts, some sun around the pool, lectures, visiting with new friends, cards and a nice dinner and show.

 

The Voyager crew always seems to be doing something different to offer a variety of ship-day activities. Today it was a Tex-Mex lunch buffet on the pool deck (which we enjoyed – much better tortillas than we get in Chicago) and an afternoon ice cream social (which we skipped) on the pool deck.

 

We attended Niki Sepsas’ last lecture (this on the history of Brazil), Daniel Silke’s talk on “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly of Globalization,” and a bridge lesson from the resident bridge expert.  It has been a full day!

 

We pulled into Fortaleza with a beautiful sunset over the hotels lining the shore and distant mountains. It was quite charming and good to finally be docked.

 

Tonight we had dinner at Signatures Restaurant with Glenda and Gary from Michigan, and Donna and Al from Seattle.  Afterwards, we attended another clarinet performance by Pete Neighbour.  It was another enjoyable evening.

 

Tomorrow we will explore Fortaleza and attend a special dance performance that is being put on for all the Voyager guests.

 

Karen and Larry

Day 8 - At Sea

Date:  Jan. 16, 2007

 

Location:  At Sea

 

Next Port:  Fortaleza, Brazil, Jan. 17

 

Quick Summary:  A sea day, marked by subsiding winds and seas – 82 degrees and 100% humidity as we cruise near the Equator off Brazil. The appearance of King Neptune and his court and the “Crossing the Equator” ceremony were the day’s highlights.

 

Report:  Larry and Karen were both up early and into the gym…we are determined not to get too lazy. Karen then attended the daily devotionals followed by our breakfast on the aft deck. We have to admit it felt especially good after watching CNN this a.m. and learning that Chicago was 22/14 today.

 

Niki Sepsas’ lecture was on the Amazon – its flora, fauna and people. It included some beautiful photography and was very interesting.

 

Then we changed into our swimsuits for the initiation ceremony for “Polliwogs,” people who have never “sailed” across the Equator. before. It was good fun on the pool deck with the band, balloon decorations and King Neptune and his Court (mermaids, pirates, a medical team and a few other crazies) in costume. All of us “Polliwogs” were roped together and paraded down from the track deck to the pool area.

 

Three of our group were selected to be “tried” by the Prosecutor (Cruise Director Jamie) and found “guilty” by Neptune. Then they were given a “haircut,” “shaved” and “operated” on by the med team. All of this was accompanied by gobs of slime and goo. Then the three guilty “Polliwogs” were forced to dive into the pool in order to be washed of their sins and become “Shellbacks.” The rest of us were given the choice of kissing a 4-ft long, very dead fish or a mermaid. All but three (including Larry) chose the fish. Of course, at the last moment, a gross, costumed male crew member was substituted for the two comely female mermaids. After doing the deed, Larry and the two others jumped into the pool. There were some reports that Karen faked the fish kiss! It was a very well-attended ceremony and everyone had a good time.

 

This was followed by a special buffet and pizza luncheon around the pool. We spent a lazy afternoon reading. Larry also worked in the computer room sending some e-mail, and Karen went to a strength and conditioning session in the gym.

 

After a quiet dinner, we went to a special cabaret show put together in the past two days by the production singers.  We were supposed to pick up a new entertainer today in Belem, the port visit that was cancelled.  It was an enjoyable evening.

 

Tomorrow we should dock in Fortaleza late in the day for our unscheduled overnight.

 

Karen and Larry

Day 7 - At Sea

 

Date:  Jan. 15, 2007

 

Location:  At Sea

 

Next Port:  Forteleza, Brazil, Jan. 17 or 18

 

Quick Summary:  Continuing winds and strong currents cause cancellation of Belem port call. We may get to Forteleza a day early and overnight there.

 

Report:  Larry got his morning workout in, while Karen went walking on protected Deck 5 and attended the devotional session that Jamie is going to run daily at 9:15 in the Horizon Lounge.

 

Capt. Dag always provides daily “words for the day” at 9 a.m. on all the speakers throughout the ship. He usually includes a bit of poetry. We have quite a renaissance man as our “driver.” (For those who may have been bothered on other ships with incessant public announcements, we normally only get the Captain’s greetings at 9 a.m., a navigation update at noon and, if appropriate, reminders at 2p.m. to change our timepieces.)

 

The captain explained that due to the continuing northwesterly winds, waves and currents that we have been fighting since our departure from Barbados, he was going to pass up the port call to Belem. He explained that this had always been an aggressive port to make on our itinerary. It’s more than 60 miles up river from the offshore pilot station and the Brazilian authorities can take 2-3 hours for customs clearances. Therefore, being behind schedule, we would have at most 1-2 hours in port, if that. (Though many of us were disappointed not to see the Amazon, he told me later on my visit to the bridge that you really don’t feel like you are in the river because you don’t see either side until reaching Belem. You don’t get the jungle river feel until reaching Manaus.)

 

So, it’s off to Forteleza. If he can get port clearance, we should be in there tomorrow (Tuesday) afternoon and spend an unscheduled overnight there.

 

Larry did enjoy his 30-minute visit to the bridge  which is open in the morning and afternoon during sea days. Second Mate Ronald, from the Philippines, showed him all the high-tech control, navigation and safety systems. Capt. Dag was there part of the time and mixed freely and answered questions from the 8-10 folks who wandered in and out while Larry was there. The captain had a birthday present for the young boy celebrating his 10th birthday today.

 

At 11 a.m., we enjoyed the second lecture by Daniel Silke: “Global Change, Part II: New Trends in Culture and Consumerism in a Globalizing World.” He is a dynamic presenter who brings in many for his very interesting sessions.

 

After lunch on the back deck, we played some cards, read our books and worked on the journal. And Larry might have found time to walk through the casino and pick up $20 in winnings from the slots. (He has to find some way to pay for these Internet minutes!)

 

At 2 p.m., we set our clock ahead another 30 minutes. We are now 3 hours ahead of Chicago time.

 

Tonight we met neighbors Alene and Don from Lafayette, CA  for dinner in Latitudes. Here the chefs prepared an Indochine menu based on Vietnamese food with modern French cooking techniques. We had a fun time.

 

After dinner, we again enjoyed the singing of Jamie Michael Stewart, the British singer, who presented an entirely new show.  He announced that he has to make all new travel arrangements to get home as he was to leave us in Belem.

 

So, tomorrow we will have an added sea day with the prospects of getting into Forteleza by dusk. We should cross the Equator in the afternoon…with a King Neptune ceremony at 11 a.m.

 

Karen and Larry

 

P.S. I don't know why the visit counter in the right column has dropped from 600+ to less than 100...it did the same thing just before debarkation when it dropped from 900+ to about 100. Ah, electrons.

Day 6 - At Sea

Date:  Jan. 14, 2007

 

Location:  At Sea

 

Next Port:  Belem, Brazil, Jan. 16

 

Quick Summary:  Our first Sunday on the Voyager. Workouts, a meaningful church service, a unique NFL football experience, a fine dinner with new friends and a Skype video call with our family. And did I mention, a Bears victory!

 

Report:  We both got our morning workouts in before the Protestant church service in the Horizons Lounge at 9:15. Our cruise director, Jamie, conducted the service along with his wife, Dana. They both do this, not as a duty, but as a dedicated Christian commitment. We sang a couple of hymns, had two responsive readings and Jamie read a couple passages from contemporary writings. There were about 30 attendees and it was a very meaningful experience.

 

At 11:00, we enjoyed Niki Sepsas’ lecture on the Amazon River. Just a few facts: The river is 200 miles wide at its mouth; because of its tremendous flow, you find fresh water 125 miles out to sea; and more water flows out of the river in one day than NYC uses in 9 years. The silt from the river has built an island at it is mouth that is the size of Switzerland.

 

After lunch, on the somewhat breezy pool deck, Karen got some laundry done…there are complimentary launderettes on each deck… while Larry read in the sun. Then it was time for football…sort of. They displayed a graphical streaming feed of Yahoo.com on a large screen in the Voyager Lounge. It sort of equates to watching paint dry. Larry had on his Bears shirt and most of the crowd of 25 enjoyed the Bears’ overtime victory.

 

We enjoyed dinner in Compass Rose with Joan and David from Hilton Head. We first met them in Miami at the breakfast hosted by our shared travel agent. After dinner, the four of us enjoyed the performance of Bob Neighbor, a terrific clarinet player.

 

Upon returning to the room, Larry was on-line checking the score of the Chargers game (sorry, Ron and Heather), when the Skype connection on the computer rang. It was our daughter Heather and husband Ron from San Diego. We attempted to conference in our daughter Kristin from NYC, but the echo/voice talk over was too great.

 

We had Kristin hang up and continued to talk with Heather and Ron. When finished, Heather had Kristin call us. In this manner it worked fine. Since these were only single connections, we were also able to get the video to work. What great fun! (We had tried unsuccessfully to call out using Skype, but it seems the Skype proxy server is being blocked. We need to investigate more. But at least incoming calls seem to work!)

 

We cross the equator  on Tuesday. Though Karen and I are pollywogs (people who have never crossed the equator by sea), I believe the ceremony will be held after we pick up King Neptune in Belem. Hey, if the Captain can change the time whenever he wants to (we advanced our clocks 30 minutes today at 2:00 pm.), I guess he can also dictate when we cross the equator. Such power! Now if he could only calm the winds.

 

Karen and Larry

Day 5 - Bridgetown, Barbados

 

Date:  Jan. 13, 2007

 

Location:  Bridgetown, Barbados

 

Next Port:  Belem, Brazil, Jan. 16

 

Quick Summary:  Cloudy and warm. Self guided walking tour of Bridgetown – local dockside fish market, St. Mary’s Anglican Church, flying fish sandwiches on the wharf, and the search for studs and cufflinks!

 

Report:  We both got our morning workouts in before the Voyager’s docking at Bridgetown at about 10:30.  We were off the ship by 11:00 and decided to pass up on the taxi rides to downtown. We are so glad we did!  Enroute we saw the local fish docks filled with stalls where the vendors were cutting up and selling all the fresh catch. Next we came across a funeral at St. Mary’s Anglican Church where we saw many islanders dressed in their finest clothes. We enjoyed walking down the non-tourist shopping streets. It was Saturday and all the families and children were out and about.

 

We enjoyed a flying fish sandwich at a café on the wharf where the charter boats were unloading (and cleaning!) their Wahoo and other catches of the day.

 

As you know, Larry forgot his formal studs and cufflinks. So we took the opportunity to walk through the shops of many international jewelers who inhabit Caribbean ports, plus the two local department stores, in our search.  No such luck.  Then, while Karen was writing postcards in the small shopping center at the cruise ship terminal, Larry found a set in the last shop before getting back on the ship!  Success!

 

We were greatly impressed with the friendliness of all the local people we talked to and observed on this island.

 

We enjoyed a before-dinner diet Coke in the Observation Lounge with Frankie Holiday, the fine electrical guitarist.  We enjoyed dinner in La Veranda, which converts to a candlelight buffet/a la carte bistro at night. We were joined by Doris and Bill, a retired pharmacist and business owner from Toronto.

 

Now it’s two sea days before arriving at Belem, 60 miles up the mouth of the mighty Amazon.